Do you have thick hair? Does it take a long time to dry and style? Are you tempted to thin your hair to make it more managable??? STOP! READ THIS BEFORE YOU ASK YOUR STYLIST TO THIN YOUR HAIR!
Thinning hair is usually done near to the scalp with thinning shears (the ones with notches cut into the blade). It is done to remove excess weight, and make your hair thinner, and thus easier to manage. It is wonderful! (so they say...)
Lets take a critical look at this... Short hair stands up right? So if you have thick hair, and you put short hairs in your hair, what is going to happen? They are going to puff up and make your long hairs puffy. Think of a chia pet. Its growing, and you pick off every other strand halfway down. Everything seems all right. It grows again, so you do it again. After a few times, you are left with a really dense lower area, and the tips are thin. This is the same concept with your hair. I'm not saying that thinning is not good every now and then, like once every year or two. But if you ask for your hair to be thinned out every time you get a hair cut, very few stylists will stop and explain this to you like I do. They will just pick up and do it since they figure it is your hair and you know what you want. I'm just saying: lets make an educated decision here people.
If you want wispy ENDS, thinning or texturizing at the last 1" of the hair is excellent! If you want VOLUME at the crown of your head, thinning about 2" out from the scalp is great!
Do not fear the thinning shears! They have many purposes, and (I hope) most stylists know how to use them correctly. I know I do.
Here is another way to get your hair to feel lighter without touching the thinning shears: ask your stylist to give you different layers. Some people call these "short layers" (supercuts does) and others call it a "90". The main point you want to get across is that you want to grab a peice of hair at your PART LINE and pull it down and say "I want my layers no shorter than ________" and show them! Then tell them you want Your hair layered all the way down to REMOVE WEIGHT. Hopefully they will know what you are talking about. About 70% of haircut mistakes happen through miscommunication. Either you are not saying enough, or your stylist is not asking enough. Volunteer information! I would rather have a woman come in and tell me too much about exactly how she wants her hair done than have a guy sit down and answer my "how do you want me to cut your hair?" with a "shorter". No duh. I know you are here to get a hair cut. I want to do a good job. I just need to know a general direction on where to go.
Here are some good things to have in mind to tell your stylist:
1. how much you want off the bottom
2. where you want your layers to start (if you have them)
3. how you part your hair
4. how you like your bangs
5. how you style your hair
6. how much time do you put into styling your hair
7. do you need products?
Yes, I ask almost every client "can I wash your hair?" I am supposed to. It is part of my job. I am not trying to take your money, in fact, because I am an employee, I see none of it except a tip and my hourly wage. I do however know that a shampoo, when done well, can relieve stress, and imporve circulation in the scalp, thus encouraging hair growth and general scalp health. Do I make it worth your money? YES. My shampoos change lives.
Do I offer almost every client a product when they are ringing out? Yes. It is also part of my job. However, I will tell you that if you use professional hair care products, not only do they work better, but your hair will be healthier. I use TIGI's "urban antidote #2" it is a moisturizing and reconstructing shampoo and conditioner set for dry and damaged hair due to chemical processing. It is AMAZING. I have herbal essenses reconstructing moisturizing shampoo in my shower. I figured I would give it a chance. The difference is night and day. I will do another post on the comparison soon with ingredient info and other good stuff. Anyway, I know for a fact that my hair is so much easier to manage and healthier with the good stuff. So yes, I will try to tell you about it in a non-pressure kind of way. I always tell my clients that I would rather have them know and not have it than not know and think they are doing great things for their hair.
So please do not get mad at your stylist for offering you shampoos and products it is part of our job, just like the clerks in the fast food restaurants are required to ask if you want fries or a drink. In both cases, if you don't want it, politely decline, please don't make us feel bad for doing our job.
HOWEVER if you have product in your hair and you want a quality hair cut, please accept the wash! I personally do not like cutting through hairspray and gel because it ruins my very expensive tools (which I have to pay for). I also am grossed out on a regular basis by people who come in with greasy hair that hasn't been washed for a few days, and for the sake of saving a few bucks, I have to work with filthy hair. You would not want to work through oily, smelly hair (yes, you may not be able to smell it, but I can) so please do not make me do it.
Just a few words from behind the chair to help your experience in the chair a better one:) I hope I did not offend anyone, I was really just trying to help. My opionions are my own and not those of my co workers or my employer.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Monday, January 17, 2011
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Thursday, January 6, 2011
How to curl iron your hair (loose curls- barrel style)
This look incorporates what the professonals call "barrel curls." There are two main types of curls, "barrel" and "spiral." Barrel curls are when you take a wider base and the curl comes out looser. Spiral curls are the ones that look like ribbons or phone cords.
What you will need:
Clean hair that has been blow dried
Rat Tail comb (the kind with the stick on the end)
mousse
hair spray (I prefer areosol but if you are a squirt kind of girl- then go for it)
curling iron (the good old fashioned one with the clampy thing)
jaw clamps (hair clips that look kind of like chip clips, or anything that will hold your hair)
thermal protectant (Paul Mitchell "seal and shine" is a good one)
Duckbill clips
*What size curling iron do I need????
Relax. It will all be ok. If you have short hair, you probably need a 1/2" or 3/4" iron. My favorite size is the 3/4" because it makes curls that stay in all day and they are not too tight. If you have longer hair, you may want to use a 1" iron. To have really loose waves, try a 1 1/2" iron.
How to do it:
Turn on your curling iron - medium to 3/4 heat--- NOT HIGH!!!!
One of my secrets of getting hair to stay curled ALL DAY (yes ladies, there is hope!) is that I put mousse in my hair after I have blow dried it. I may also put a smidge in before I blow dry it too, but usually I just put it in after.
Another trick is that I let the curls set (cool off) before I let them fall.
Section your hair into five sections: a rectangle on top, then front right, front left, back right, and back left.
Using your rat tail comb, and starting in one of the back sections (its easier to see what you are doing if you don't have the curls to look past like if you had started in the front) part out a horizontal parting the height of the width of your curling iron. Do this at the BOTTOM of the section. Clip the rest back up. Holding your parting straight out from your scalp, insert the hot curling iron about halfway on the strand and slide it down to the bottom of your hair. (The clampy side should be up) Roll the curling iron (under... you don't want a crease in your hair) almost up to your scalp. It's ok if you stop about 1" away, that part does not need to be curled, and you don't want to get burned. Tilt the curling iron a little bit, and work the iron out of your hair but leave it rolled up and catch the curl with your other hand. Clip it with the duckbill clip. Move on to the next curl and clip them up as you go.
Work your way up the section, and continue on to the other back sections, and then the side sections.
Take a break and spray your hair with hairspray and scrunch it. (Only a little hair spray- don't go crazy)
On to the top! Start at the back of the top section and section out the same size and do the same thing as the sides, but go as close to the scalp as you can without burning yourself ( you can lay the comb between your iron and your scalp for a good guide and you won't get burned that way). You want the clamp facing forward, so your curls will be rolling backward. Work from the back of the section to your bangs.
Dangle upside down and spray a little hairspray.
Curl your bangs or straighten them, however you like them.
Enjoy your hair!!
I will do a video and post it on here and on youtube as a visual aid for this technique too!
Happy styling! Don't forget to subscribe, "like" and comment!
What you will need:
Clean hair that has been blow dried
Rat Tail comb (the kind with the stick on the end)
mousse
hair spray (I prefer areosol but if you are a squirt kind of girl- then go for it)
curling iron (the good old fashioned one with the clampy thing)
jaw clamps (hair clips that look kind of like chip clips, or anything that will hold your hair)
thermal protectant (Paul Mitchell "seal and shine" is a good one)
Duckbill clips
*What size curling iron do I need????
Relax. It will all be ok. If you have short hair, you probably need a 1/2" or 3/4" iron. My favorite size is the 3/4" because it makes curls that stay in all day and they are not too tight. If you have longer hair, you may want to use a 1" iron. To have really loose waves, try a 1 1/2" iron.
How to do it:
Turn on your curling iron - medium to 3/4 heat--- NOT HIGH!!!!
One of my secrets of getting hair to stay curled ALL DAY (yes ladies, there is hope!) is that I put mousse in my hair after I have blow dried it. I may also put a smidge in before I blow dry it too, but usually I just put it in after.
Another trick is that I let the curls set (cool off) before I let them fall.
Section your hair into five sections: a rectangle on top, then front right, front left, back right, and back left.
Using your rat tail comb, and starting in one of the back sections (its easier to see what you are doing if you don't have the curls to look past like if you had started in the front) part out a horizontal parting the height of the width of your curling iron. Do this at the BOTTOM of the section. Clip the rest back up. Holding your parting straight out from your scalp, insert the hot curling iron about halfway on the strand and slide it down to the bottom of your hair. (The clampy side should be up) Roll the curling iron (under... you don't want a crease in your hair) almost up to your scalp. It's ok if you stop about 1" away, that part does not need to be curled, and you don't want to get burned. Tilt the curling iron a little bit, and work the iron out of your hair but leave it rolled up and catch the curl with your other hand. Clip it with the duckbill clip. Move on to the next curl and clip them up as you go.
Work your way up the section, and continue on to the other back sections, and then the side sections.
Take a break and spray your hair with hairspray and scrunch it. (Only a little hair spray- don't go crazy)
On to the top! Start at the back of the top section and section out the same size and do the same thing as the sides, but go as close to the scalp as you can without burning yourself ( you can lay the comb between your iron and your scalp for a good guide and you won't get burned that way). You want the clamp facing forward, so your curls will be rolling backward. Work from the back of the section to your bangs.
Dangle upside down and spray a little hairspray.
Curl your bangs or straighten them, however you like them.
Enjoy your hair!!
I will do a video and post it on here and on youtube as a visual aid for this technique too!
Happy styling! Don't forget to subscribe, "like" and comment!
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
How to style curly hair- defined but felxible curls
Before I went to cosmetology school, I had absolutely no idea how to style my hair, and so my hair either got flat ironed or braided or put into a ponytail. I see girls everywhere with beautiful curls, who just don't know how to style them. Curly hair is not a curse! It actually makes things easier for us. Here is one way to style your curls that is so easy and very pretty.
What you will need:
blow dryer
diffuser (a bell shaped attatchment for the blow dryer)
leave in conditioner (optional but I find it helps your overall hair health)
curl product (paul mitchell "round trip" or TIGI "small talk" are great ones)
shine product (paul mitchell "super skinny" or biosilk are good, you want a oil one not a creme one)
clean, damp hair
How to do it:
Shampoo and condition your hair, then towel dry your hair.
Apply leave in conditioner if you have it.
EMULSIFY (rub it around in your hands so you don't glob it) the curl product (if you are using round trip you will notice it goes from clear to white, this is normal) and apply it to your hair. You don't need a lot. Usually 2 pumps of round trip or one pump of small talk work great for most people. The more stiff you want your curls, the more product you will need to use.
Once the product is worked through your hair, get your diffuser out and attatch it to your blow dryer. Use your diffuser and dry your hair about 80-90%.
How to diffuse: hold the blow dryer with diffuser attatchment and bring the bell to the bottom of your hair. Gathering your hair as you travel, press the difuser bell to your scalp. Now your hair is gathered, so your curls are at their curliest, and your hair is drying but not being blown everywhere. Once it starts to feel too hot, gently let the curls down and move to another section. Work your way around your head this way (you may need to make a 2nd sweep to get it dey enough).
Once your hair is mostly dry, emulsify your shine product and scrunch it into your hair. DO NOT RUN YOUR FINGERS THROUGH YOUR CURLS.
Now the important part- leave it alone. If you are constantly running your hands through your curly hair, it will just turn into a poof. This is the trick to pretty curls that are defined, yet flexible.
If you try this style and you have long heavy hair and it falls out (after you have tried it and seen that with THIS METHOD it falls, not if it just usually does) then you can use a little bit of areosol hairspray (sexy hair's "soya want full hair" is great, so is Paul Mitchell's "super clean extra").
Good luck! Happy styling!
What you will need:
blow dryer
diffuser (a bell shaped attatchment for the blow dryer)
leave in conditioner (optional but I find it helps your overall hair health)
curl product (paul mitchell "round trip" or TIGI "small talk" are great ones)
shine product (paul mitchell "super skinny" or biosilk are good, you want a oil one not a creme one)
clean, damp hair
How to do it:
Shampoo and condition your hair, then towel dry your hair.
Apply leave in conditioner if you have it.
EMULSIFY (rub it around in your hands so you don't glob it) the curl product (if you are using round trip you will notice it goes from clear to white, this is normal) and apply it to your hair. You don't need a lot. Usually 2 pumps of round trip or one pump of small talk work great for most people. The more stiff you want your curls, the more product you will need to use.
Once the product is worked through your hair, get your diffuser out and attatch it to your blow dryer. Use your diffuser and dry your hair about 80-90%.
How to diffuse: hold the blow dryer with diffuser attatchment and bring the bell to the bottom of your hair. Gathering your hair as you travel, press the difuser bell to your scalp. Now your hair is gathered, so your curls are at their curliest, and your hair is drying but not being blown everywhere. Once it starts to feel too hot, gently let the curls down and move to another section. Work your way around your head this way (you may need to make a 2nd sweep to get it dey enough).
Once your hair is mostly dry, emulsify your shine product and scrunch it into your hair. DO NOT RUN YOUR FINGERS THROUGH YOUR CURLS.
Now the important part- leave it alone. If you are constantly running your hands through your curly hair, it will just turn into a poof. This is the trick to pretty curls that are defined, yet flexible.
If you try this style and you have long heavy hair and it falls out (after you have tried it and seen that with THIS METHOD it falls, not if it just usually does) then you can use a little bit of areosol hairspray (sexy hair's "soya want full hair" is great, so is Paul Mitchell's "super clean extra").
Good luck! Happy styling!
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
How to flat iron your hair (the right way)!!!!
Hello all! Today we are going to talk about how to flat iron your hair. A lot of my clients flat iron their hair, but because of the price of flat ironing, or time constraints, we don't really have the opportunity to go in depth on how to do it right. So here is (almost) everything you need to know!!!
*A note on flat irons: ceramic or not? 1" or bigger? Cheap or expensive? RELAX!!! I prefer ceramic because it heats more evenly. If you have a flat iron that is not ceramic, don't rush out and buy another one, as long as it works- we're in business. I use a 1 inch flat iron because I think the smaller ones are easier to manuver than the larger 2" models. Price.. Did you know that flat irons can cost $400 and higher? The good news: you do not have to go spend bug bucks on a flat iron. I use an andis 1" ceramic. I got it at Walmart for around $13. It works just fine for me. The salon I work at has a $300 kpak reconstructing flat iron. I'm not knocking it- its fabulous. I just personally can't afford anything in that price range. If you can- more power to you.
*You will want a THERMAL PROTECTANT to flat iron your hair. This is a hair product that acts kind of like a oven mitt for your hair. It makes your hair easier to flat iron, and protects your hair against the intense heat of the tool- thus minimizing damage! There are balms (the kind you rub on your hands and apply) or sprays. This is important: there are lotions and sprays too- and they both squirt, so don't assume you are getting a nice light product just because it is in a squirt bottle. Lotions are heavier- thus better for people with coarse, thick, hard to flat iron hair. For those of you (like me) with finer hair, sprays work best. A great example of one is Paul Mitchell's "seal and shine".
*You will also perhaps want a smoother for after you are done. This is like "biosilk" or "after party" from TIGI.
Be sure that you part your hair where you want it parted for your style before you start flat ironing!
How to do it:
squirt your hair with the thermal protectant
OK, so section your hair into 4 sections (front right, front left, back right, back left)- or just clip it all up and leave a 3/4 inch section out at the nape of your neck. Flat iron that section. Work your way from the bottom of your hair to the top of your hair (section-wise, not flat ironing from tips to scalp lol that would make no sense).
When you are done, then smooth with the smoothing product.
TADA!!
*A note on flat irons: ceramic or not? 1" or bigger? Cheap or expensive? RELAX!!! I prefer ceramic because it heats more evenly. If you have a flat iron that is not ceramic, don't rush out and buy another one, as long as it works- we're in business. I use a 1 inch flat iron because I think the smaller ones are easier to manuver than the larger 2" models. Price.. Did you know that flat irons can cost $400 and higher? The good news: you do not have to go spend bug bucks on a flat iron. I use an andis 1" ceramic. I got it at Walmart for around $13. It works just fine for me. The salon I work at has a $300 kpak reconstructing flat iron. I'm not knocking it- its fabulous. I just personally can't afford anything in that price range. If you can- more power to you.
*You will want a THERMAL PROTECTANT to flat iron your hair. This is a hair product that acts kind of like a oven mitt for your hair. It makes your hair easier to flat iron, and protects your hair against the intense heat of the tool- thus minimizing damage! There are balms (the kind you rub on your hands and apply) or sprays. This is important: there are lotions and sprays too- and they both squirt, so don't assume you are getting a nice light product just because it is in a squirt bottle. Lotions are heavier- thus better for people with coarse, thick, hard to flat iron hair. For those of you (like me) with finer hair, sprays work best. A great example of one is Paul Mitchell's "seal and shine".
*You will also perhaps want a smoother for after you are done. This is like "biosilk" or "after party" from TIGI.
Be sure that you part your hair where you want it parted for your style before you start flat ironing!
How to do it:
squirt your hair with the thermal protectant
OK, so section your hair into 4 sections (front right, front left, back right, back left)- or just clip it all up and leave a 3/4 inch section out at the nape of your neck. Flat iron that section. Work your way from the bottom of your hair to the top of your hair (section-wise, not flat ironing from tips to scalp lol that would make no sense).
When you are done, then smooth with the smoothing product.
TADA!!
How to TEASE your hair (and keep it up!!!)
Okay, so I know a lot of girls who want massive volume in their hair, and they tease it, but by the time lunch comes, their tease is - well - not.
Here is the solution!!!
What you will need:
*a brush (not the kind with the pegs, but with firm bristles)
*OR if you have one, a teasing comb (it's like a rattail comb, but the bristles are uneven)(I use a brush)
*aresol (no pumps!!) hairspray (I like Paul Mitchell "super clean extra", or TIGI's "hard head"
*if you want extra massive volume you will ALSO need a spray glue like Spiker "blast" from joico, or got2B glued spray
*a blow dry volumizer (like TIGI's "small talk")
(if you don't have these exact ones or you found one that you like better, its cool! These are just ones that I have used and I know they work for my hair.)
Prep work:
Take a shower and wash your hair, then towel dry your hair.
Here we go!
Blow dry your hair until it is slightly damp. (I put leave in conditioner in before I do anything to my hair) Then apply the volumizer WHERE YOU WANT THE VOLUME (if you put it in everywhere, and you only want volume on top, you may be in for more work, and who wants that!) Then lean so your head us mostly upside down and lift your hair from your scalp where you want the volume and blow dry your hair the rest of the way.
Now time for teasing! TIP: teasing builds on itself, so start at the bottom of your "tease section" and work up! The top and front of your hair should be the last spot you tease. ---- Get a jaw clip or a hair tie (just something to restrain your hair) and clip up the section that you want to tease. Then section (out of your clipped to tease section) out a small horizontal section and hold it straight out. Spray a little bit of hairspray. Put the brush (or comb) in about halfway on the strand, and brush it toward your head. Do this seveal times, and you will start to get what looks like a matting effect. Make sure you go all the way to your scalp so your tease is tight and won't come out! Work your way from the bottom back of your "tease section" to the front top. Then go back in and spot tease. Turn your head upside down, and it's time for more hair spray! But wait for a few seconds before coming back up so the spray can set a little. (this would also be the time for the spray glue if you want to use it). Then smooth down what you want smoothed, and make it how you like it! Good luck, hope this helps!
Here is the solution!!!
What you will need:
*a brush (not the kind with the pegs, but with firm bristles)
*OR if you have one, a teasing comb (it's like a rattail comb, but the bristles are uneven)(I use a brush)
*aresol (no pumps!!) hairspray (I like Paul Mitchell "super clean extra", or TIGI's "hard head"
*if you want extra massive volume you will ALSO need a spray glue like Spiker "blast" from joico, or got2B glued spray
*a blow dry volumizer (like TIGI's "small talk")
(if you don't have these exact ones or you found one that you like better, its cool! These are just ones that I have used and I know they work for my hair.)
Prep work:
Take a shower and wash your hair, then towel dry your hair.
Here we go!
Blow dry your hair until it is slightly damp. (I put leave in conditioner in before I do anything to my hair) Then apply the volumizer WHERE YOU WANT THE VOLUME (if you put it in everywhere, and you only want volume on top, you may be in for more work, and who wants that!) Then lean so your head us mostly upside down and lift your hair from your scalp where you want the volume and blow dry your hair the rest of the way.
Now time for teasing! TIP: teasing builds on itself, so start at the bottom of your "tease section" and work up! The top and front of your hair should be the last spot you tease. ---- Get a jaw clip or a hair tie (just something to restrain your hair) and clip up the section that you want to tease. Then section (out of your clipped to tease section) out a small horizontal section and hold it straight out. Spray a little bit of hairspray. Put the brush (or comb) in about halfway on the strand, and brush it toward your head. Do this seveal times, and you will start to get what looks like a matting effect. Make sure you go all the way to your scalp so your tease is tight and won't come out! Work your way from the bottom back of your "tease section" to the front top. Then go back in and spot tease. Turn your head upside down, and it's time for more hair spray! But wait for a few seconds before coming back up so the spray can set a little. (this would also be the time for the spray glue if you want to use it). Then smooth down what you want smoothed, and make it how you like it! Good luck, hope this helps!
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